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Pope John
Paul II places a letter into a crevice
of the Western Wall. The letter, expressing the
Vatican's apology for centuries of anti-Semitism,
is to go on permanent display at Jerusalem's Yad Vashem Memorial
of the Holocaust.
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Jerusalem
Inspired by Pope John Paul II
tourists are flocking to Israel
By Toby Saltzman
When Pope John Paul II stood on the emerald Mount of the Beatitudes
overlooking the blue Sea of Galilee, he blessed a tiny sapling of
an olive tree, indicating a promising future for a land that has
endured three millennium of history. There are few places in the
world where time stands still; where the past and the present collide,
yet dwell in harmony; and where three thousand years seemingly disappear
before your eyes when you turn a corner from an ancient quarter
to a new, if not for the thrust of timeworn cobblestones beneath
your feet. Jerusalem transcends time past and present, old and new.
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From the
Mount of Olives you
see Jerusalem's layers of history.
Photo by Toby Saltzman
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Time is a strange motivator for all visitors to Jerusalem. Most first-time
visitors come in search of ancient splendors, to satisfy lifetime
desires to tread in the footsteps of the Bible, see the exact spots
where Abraham bound Isaac for sacrifice, where Jesus preached, or
where Mohammed prayed. The yearning to know the Holy Land is multi-denominational.
The desire to feel the earth or see precious relics transcends religious
differences.
A tiny land that contains the important religious shrines for much
of the world's population, Israel has always enticed pilgrims to
seek the private places of their souls and the sacred places of
familiar Bible stories.
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David's Citadel,
built by Herod in 24 BC, houses the Tower of David Museum.
Photo by Toby Saltzman
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It is inspiring, indeed, to stand on the Mount of Olives at twilight
in view of Jerusalem's biblical landscape. As the sun guilds the
stone buildings, you see various groups trailing peacefully through
the ancient, narrow streets of the Christian, Muslim, Armenian and
Jewish quarters: the Franciscan friars, the Coptic and Armenian
priests in mediaeval cloaks; the Muslims in robes; the Orthodox
Jews in black garb.
To follow the Christian route along the Via Dolorosa as it winds
to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus died and was resurrected,
leaves many people breathless. For the first time in history, the
clergy of the six denominations who share this church (and who traditionally
do not see eye-to-eye) united in prayer to honor the Pontiff's visit.
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The Western
Wall shoulders 2000 years of history.
Photo by Toby Saltzman
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For all its spiritual power, the Western Wall seems nothing more
than a simple, high corner of stones interspersed with occasional
tufts of wild grass and numerous crevices, the lower ones filled
with tucks of hand-written notes placed there by hopeful worshippers.
When Pope John Paul II placed his letter into a crevice, his action
spoke volumes of heartfelt apologies for past centuries of anti-Semitism.
The letter will be on permanent display at Jerusalem's Yad Vashem
Memorial of the Holocaust (another stop on thePontiff's itinerary.)
The Wall shoulders 2,000 years of the history of Judaism and Islam.
It is the only surviving remains of the Second Temple. The court
at its base is an open-air synagogue partitioned into separate areas
for women and men. On the upper plateau is The Temple Mount, believed
to be the place where God first formed man from the dust of the
ground. It houses David's Altar, over which Solomon built the First
Temple, which was later replaced by Herod's Second Temple. Also
thought to be the scene of Mohammed's miraculous night journey,
the Temple Mount is the basis for the Dome of the Rock, which is
built around the Sacred Rock upon which Abraham was about to sacrifice
Isaac.
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A stone frieze
above a doorway on the Via Dolorasa.
Photo by Toby Saltzman
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On Saturday mornings, the Wall is a scene of organized chaos: lines
of men and women davening or praying; rabbinic students rejoicing
with torah scrolls high above their heads; and families clustering
around proud Bar Mitzvah boys.
The ancient Citadel stands nearby. Built by Herod in 24 BC, it
was later destroyed by conquering Romans who spared its tower, dubbed
The Tower of David. Inside, the Tower of David Museum recounts the
city's story from the Canaanite period to the present through archeological
finds and exhibits. A new, poignant display features 5th-Century
crucifixes and artifacts that provide archaeological testimony to
the massacre of thousands of Christians by the Sassanid Persians
who conquered Jerusalem in 614 AD.
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A sculpture
at Jerusalem's Yad Vashem
Memorial of the Holocaust.
Photo by Toby Saltzman
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Outside the crenellated walls of Old Jerusalem, a modern attitude
reigns, but with strict respect for things historic. By law, all
buildings are faced with the cream-colored "Jerusalem limestone"
cut from local quarries. This stone, which glowingly reflects the
sunlight, gave Jerusalem the name The Golden City.
Landmarks which have survived since the days of the British Mandate
(after World War I) include the majestic King David Hotel, which
holds court on a broad, tree-lined boulevard, and, immediately opposite,
the towering YMCA building - arguably the most beautiful "Y" in
the world. Nearby, an old windmill marks the entrance to Mishkenot
Sha'ananim, a thriving artists' enclave. The Israel Museum's mind-boggling
collection of archeological, historic and artistic treasures includes
the Shrine of the Book, which houses the Dead Sea Scrolls. Here,
on the outdoor plateau overlooking Jerusalem is a divine respite:
the Billy Rose Sculpture Garden, scattered with significant works
by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henry Moore, Alberto Giaccometti and others.
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Capernaum
was the fishing village home of Peter and the
White Synagogue where Jesusfirst preached to his followers.
Photo by Toby Saltzman
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For all its religious and historic significance, Jerusalem is a young-at-heart,
cosmopolitan city with hip "new" pockets to explore. So take some
time to enjoy the hubs of cafes, restaurants and boutiques before
you head to the outskirts.
Pope John Paul II remarked on the emotions stirred by two particularly
meaningful Christian sites: Qasr al Yahud, on the River Jordan -
the site where John the Baptist baptized Jesus; and, of course,
Bethlehem, where the Grotto of the Nativity is certain to astonish
you with its tiny size. It is best to visit Bethlehem, located minutes
from Jerusalem under Palestinian control, with a qualified guide.
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Tabgha, where
an intimate chapel marks the traditional site of Jesus' multiplication
of
the loaves and fishes, is a wonderful
source for ceramic souvenirs.
Photo by Toby Saltzman
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For true romantics - and I count history and religious buffs among
those for whom travel through history is a romantic journey - I
suggest a glorious day trip to places bordering the Sea of Galilee
that were on the Pontiff's itinerary. Head for Capernaum (the fishing
village home of Saint Peter) and the White Synagogue where Jesus
first preached to his followers. Then travel around the lake (the
Sea of Galilee is really a fresh-water lake) to the picturesque
Mount of Beatitudes, the site of Jesus' Sermon on the Mount. Later
on, stop at Tabgha, where an intimate chapel marks the traditional
site of Jesus' multiplication of the loaves and fishes. (Tabgha,
by the way, is the best place to buy ceramic souvenirs decorated
with loaves and fishes.) En route back to Jerusalem, stop at Nazareth.
Nearby, the modern Basilica of the Annunciation is where Pope John
Paul II celebrated Annunciation Day Mass. If time allows on your
return, try to visit Bet She'an. The incredible excavations of this
ancient settlement are documented on notes dating to 5000 BC. End
your day with a romantic dinner at Mishkenot Sha'ananim. Reserve
a table along the glass wall to see the moon rise above Old Jerusalem,
illuminating the city for all humanity.
Details:
The Israel Ministry of Tourism InfoCenter
Phone: 1-888-77-Israel
Website: www.goisrael.com
For an easy, independent tour of Jerusalem's main sights, take
Bus 99 on the Jerusalem Circular Line. It departs from Jaffa Gate
every two hours.
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A photographer
crouches to capture
the majesty of Masada on film.
Photo by Toby Saltzman
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Official Israeli guides, extensively educated in all religious,
cultural and historical aspects, charge about US $140 for half-day
tours and about $230 for all-day tours with transportation for up
to four people. Be frank: describe the exact type of experience
you want. Guides can arrange everything from an inter-faith tour
of historic sites to a Christian baptism in the Jordan River to
a tour relevant to your specific beliefs. The guides are reliable
to escort you safely through certain remote areas. You may book
guides in advance through your travel agent or at your hotel.
For an economical stay in Israel it's worth reserving accommodations
(hotels or kibbutzim) in North America prior to your departure.
Often (particularly in Canada) North American travel agents and
tour packagers may charge 30% less for the same hotel you would
be charged while in the country.
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